🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.